An important component of basement perimeter drain systems is the sump pump. The effectiveness of the drain system is dependent on the operation of the pump. Sure … other things, like blocked drain pipes can occur, but most perimeter drain system failures are caused by sump pump malfunction. This article covers:
- Types of Sump Pumps and Terminology
- Common Causes of Pump Failure and How to Avoid It
- How to Shop for a Sump Pump
Types of Sump Pumps and Terminology
Typically the pump is selected by the drain system installer. Most pumps work in similar ways and have similar parts.
There are three types of pumps used for dewatering basements or crawl spaces. These are:
Pedestal Type -- Also referred to as a column type or upright, the pedestal sump pump has an open motor that is supported on top of a column attached to the pump casing. When installed, the motor sits outside the sump and above the basement floor. The motor is not designed to be submerged in water.
Submersible Type -- This pump uses a watertight motor designed to be immersed in water. The motor is coupled directly to the pump casing and is designed to be completely hidden within the sump.
Water-Powered Type -- Water-powered sump pumps work by using city water pressure instead of electrical power. These pumps do not use electricity.
These pumps require between 40psi and 80psi of water pressure in order to function. This means these pumps cannot be used if the house gets its water from a private well.
If the city water pressure drops below the minimum pressure required, the pump will not work. The amount of water able to be pumped is much less than other pumps. If the basement has a significant water problem, these back-up pumps may not be an option. Your state or local laws or ordinances may have requirements for water powered sump pumps.
Primary and Back-up Sump Pumps
Pumps can be installed as either
primary or
back-up pumps. If there is only one pump installed, it is a primary pump. Primary pumps are either powered by 120-volt electricity or water-powered. If two pumps are installed, it is likely that one pump is primary and one is a back-up. There are two types of back-up sump pumps:
Emergency DC with Battery Back-up Type & AC Power Recharging Unit -- These pumps can either be a pedestal or submersible pump and have a direct current motor. The pump is powered by a battery pack that is continually charged by a battery charging unit that plugs into house 120-volt electrical system. Many of these back-up pump systems come with an alarm system that sounds if the back-up pump is being used or the battery is not charging properly.
The manufacturers recommend the batteries be replaced every two years. This could be a problem if the homeowner forgets to replace the battery. The batteries usually have a continuous run time of seven to 10 hours which should be plenty of time for the electric utility company to turn power back on.
Emergency Water-Powered Back-up Type -- These pumps are described above. These pumps can be used as primary or emergency back-up pumps.
Common Reasons Why Sump Pumps Fail
A subsurface water drainage system will not stop the water from getting into the basement if the sump pump fails to operate. This happens more times than one would think. And a sump pump that does not work means big trouble in a home that has had groundwater seepage problems in the past.
To help avoid a sump pump failure, the homeowner must plan ahead. First, the homeowner should understand what causes sump pumps to fail. Then, based on individual circumstances, the homeowner can decide what type of system would work best for their home.
How To Avoid Sump Pump Failures
There are several different ways a sump pump can fail:
- Incorrectly sized pump
- Improper installation
- Product defect
- Age of pump
- Lack of maintenance
- Lightning surge damage
- Electrical power outage
Unfortunately, there are no studies indicating which causes of sump pump failure are the most common. It is likely that sump pumps getting too old and power outages are the most common reasons the sump pump fails to operate when needed. Here are some things that can be done to reduce the chances.
Incorrectly sized pump -- Selecting the right size pump is very important. Bigger is not necessarily better. If a pump is too large, the pump will cycle on and off more than it needs to, which can result in a shorter pump life. If the pump is too small, it may not be able to pump the water out or it will run too long and too hot, shortening the pump’s life.
The installer of the drain system should size the pump based on the calculated amount of water needed to be pumped (called capacity and indicated in gallons per minute) and the height and length the water needs to be pumped (head). Ask the installer for their calculations and a copy of the pump capacity chart.
If the installer cannot produce these calculations, this indicates a problem. Ask the installer to put you in touch with technical support at the pump manufacturer. The pump manufacturer should be able to check the size of the pump over the phone by asking the homeowner a few questions. Most manufacturers are very willing to help.
Improper installation -- Many times the installer does not follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Ask the installer for the owner’s manual and installation instructions. Read them completely. Here are some common mistakes to look for:
- Most manufacturers recommend or require a check valve be installed on the discharge line. If not installed, the backflow of water can cause the pump impeller to rotate backwards and unscrew off the motor shaft. If this happens, the pump motor will run but will not pump any water.
- Most manufacturers require the drilling of a small air relief hole in the discharge line between the pump and the check valve. This is intended to prevent the pump from having to overcome the air pressure in the discharge pipe.
- Check to make sure the discharge pipe is of the required diameter. The proper size is usually indicated in the owner’s manual.
- Install the pump on a dedicated electrical circuit. A dedicated circuit means the pump outlet is the only thing on that electrical branch circuit. Many pump motors require between 10 and 15 amps of power when starting. This is near the capacity of many electrical circuits.
- Check to make sure the electrical outlet is grounded (3-prongs). This can be checked with a circuit tester, which is available from any hardware or home improvement store.
- Make sure an extension cord has not been used to power the pump.
- Check the pump's electrical cord to make sure it does not interfere with the operation of the pump.
- The sump pit should have a solid bottom surface. A dirt or gravel bottom can increase the chance that rocks and debris will enter the pump that are too large for it to handle. This may cause the impeller to get stuck.
- Clean all dirt and debris out of sump pit before installing the pump.
- Make sure the check valve is not installed backwards. Usually there is an arrow on the valve pointing in the direction of water flow.
Product Defect -- Product defects are probably rare. While some product defects may not exhibit a problem when the pump is new, it is still wise to test the pump when it is installed to make sure the pump operates properly.
Age of Pump -- It is impossible to predict how long a sump pump will last. In questioning manufacturers, pumps can last anywhere from three to 20 years. One manufacturer states that a life expectancy of 10 to 15 years is reasonable. The U.S. Department of Housing and Development estimates the life expectancy of sump pumps at 10 years. The pump’s life expectancy will vary due to how much the pump has run in its lifetime.
Write down the pump installation date on something on or near the pump so it is easier to keep tabs on the age of the pump. As the pump approaches the anticipated life expectancy, consider replacing it.
During the life of the pump, some service may be necessary. Certain parts like the impeller, o-rings and switch wear out. The average switch life on an automatic pump is four to seven years according to one manufacturer. Consider having the pump serviced every few years.
Maintenance of Pump -- Some pump manufacturers recommend the pump be run every two to three months. Some recommend a yearly program completed just before the rainy season hits. Follow the pump manufacturer’s recommendations. These will include:
- Fill the sump pit with water to make sure the pump operates. If there is a back-up pump, unplug the primary pump and run the back-up pump to make sure it works properly. Don’t forget to plug the primary pump back in after completing the test.
- When testing your sump pump, go outside to make sure it is discharging water. In some cases, the pump can run but not pump any water. This can because the impeller has disengaged from the pump shaft or the checkvalve is installed backwards.
- Check the operation of the float to make sure it is not restricted.
- Clean out the air hole in the discharge line.
- Listen for any unusual noises when the motor is running.
- Replace the battery on the back-up sump pump every two or three years.
Lightning or Power Surge Damage -- Some components of the sump pump may be vulnerable to damage from power surges. To help prevent this, protect the entire electrical system from power surges with a service entrance (whole house) surge protection device. To learn more about protecting from power surges, read the surge protection article.
Electrical Power Outage -- It is not uncommon to have the electrical power go out during violent thunderstorms. This is not good when a home is prone to water in the basement during rainstorms. Back-up pumps that do not need house power are the answer to overcome power outages.
Purchasing A Good Quality Sump Pump
It is very difficult, if not impossible, to compare the quality of one sump pump to another. There are no standardized tests that grade pumps as low, medium, or high quality or which one will last the longest. However, here are some tips on things to look for when reviewing the pump your contractor has selected or when purchasing one yourself.
- Automatic Operation: Always purchase an automatic pump over a manual pump. An automatic pump is designed to turn on whenever there is water in the sump pit. Unlike a manual pump, it does not require any action by the homeowner.
- Pump Manufacturer Reputation: Look for a well-known company. Unfortunately, the average consumer is not familiar with any pump companies, so many do not recognize any company names. A consumer can check the Internet to see how long the company has been in business. Look to see if the company is a member of the Sump and Sewage Pump Manufacturers Association (SSPMA). According to SSPMA, more than 90-percent of the sump pumps on the market are made by SSPMA member companies.
- Warranty: Look for a good warranty. Unfortunately, most of the warranties are about the same -- one to two years. (We could not find a sump pump with less than a one-year warranty.) If you find a pump with a warranty that is less than a year, it may be a “red flag.”
- Tested and Made to SSPMA Standards: Look for a sump pump that is manufactured and tested according to the SSPMA Recommended Standards for Sump, Effluent and Sewage Pumps. The SSPMA Standard is voluntary. It is intended to provide some uniformity in determining pump capacity, to set requirements for labeling information, and to set requirements for safety and motor overload protection. The standard does not test for longevity or durability.
We could not find any sump pump that is not manufactured in accordance to this standard, but in the future, foreign-made pumps may come on the market and may not be tested to this standard. A sump pump manufactured and tested according to the SSPMA Recommended Standards for Sump, Effluent and Sewage Pumps will carry a label indicating it is SSPMA Certified.
- Oil-Filled Motor: Most electric pumps are either cooled by air or by oil. Keeping the motor running as cool as possible helps make the pump last longer. Some pump manufacturers believe an oil-filled motor runs cooler than an air-filled motor, which may indicate that these pumps will last longer.
What Is the Best System for You
Every house should be evaluated based on its own needs. However, a system that takes care of most of the potential sump pump problems and meets the typical needs of a house with wet basement problems is a dual pump system that consists of:
- Primary Pump (Pedestal or Submersible)
- Emergency Back-up Pump (Battery or Water-Powered)
- Emergency Back-up Pump Alarm
With an emergency back-up pump, not powered by 120-volt house power, if the electricity goes out, the back-up pump will take over. Using two pumps instead of one, it is very unlikely that both pumps will malfunction at the same time due to age. And, with the alarm system, you will be able to tell when the primary pump has failed and the back-up pump had to be used. That will tell you when it is time to replace the pumps.
A manufacturer that makes sump pumps for residential perimeter drain systems and that is a member of the Sump & Sewage Pump Manufacturers Association can be consulted to select the right components for your particular circumstances.
State Farm® believes the information contained in the Good Neighbor House® is reliable and accurate. We cannot, however, guarantee the performance of all items demonstrated or described in all situations. Always consult an experienced contractor or other expert to determine the best application of these ideas or products in your home.
03-13-2003